The furnace of Ventoux (Stage 15 TdF, Givors > Ventoux, 242.5km)

Having arrived in Lyon with JK the night before, checked our bikes had arrived and were in good shape and had our ‘new arrivals’ briefing (I was pleased to know nothing much had changed in terms of the daily routine over the past three years) we were fully prepared for our first day on the bike. It was going to be a big day!

We were jumping right in at the deep end with the longest (although arguably not the ‘biggest’) day of the 2013 Tour de France. In total we were scheduled to cover ~245km from Givors (a smallish town just south of Lyon) to the top of Mont Ventoux in the heart of the Vaucluse. A stage that is expected to take the pros seven hours to complete would take us approximately ten (not including rest stops and lunch).

A big day naturally meant an early rise, with breakfast at 5.30am and the transfer bus leaving at 6am. The peloton rolled out at 7am.

Ventoux here we come...... (the magenta is burning!)

Mark T had targeted this stage and was aiming to be the first to arrive at the top of the Ventoux and rolled out with the ‘fast group’. The remainder of the Linklaters group set out together (even I had been talked into wearing official Linklaters team kit).

The group was quickly rolling along and, assisted by a favourable tailwind which would follow us all day, it wasn’t long before we were approaching our first feed stop at 44km - the initial ‘neutralised’ section of the day (all riders would ride together and regroup at the first feed stop before doing the rest of the day at their own pace)

Chocolate milk and cake.... cycling fuel!

The stage profile for the day is obviously dominated by the Ventoux at the end, towering above Provence at an altitude of 1912m, but the 221km leading to its base were in fact anything but flat. Not long after leaving the first feed stop we were already ascending our third categorised climb of the day (admittedly only Category 4 climbs, but climbs nonetheless).

The day was punctuated by feed stops at 44km, 92km, 137km, 188km and then a final stop at 225km. A combination of the tailwind, good group riding and fresh legs meant that the kilometres were ticking by with ease, fields of lavender on either side. JK, who had been pretty nervous upon our departure, was noticeably more relaxed as we rolled into the third feed station for lunch near the top of the Cote de Bourdeaux.

Lunch after 140km...

The early part of the day had been a good opportunity to chat to other riders. For some this was the last day of their ‘Tour Taster’, others the first day and for a sizeable number it was day 15 of 21, ‘Lifers’. Aside from the serious guys out the front, who I didn’t get a chance to speak to, everyone was welcoming, chatty and keen to share their experiences, goals and/or motivations.

Leaving lunch with JK and a few of the other Linklaters guys the groups, and the times between them, were beginning to fracture a little more and I found myself amongst a group of five Lifers for the ride into the fourth stop. By the time we arrived we were all running low on water as the temperatures began to rise above 30 degrees Celsius. A glorious day, but increasingly becoming uncomfortably hot for cycling. Rehydrating at every opportunity was becoming more and more crucial.

JK arrived at the stop not too long after me having ridden the majority of the previous 30km on her own in the heat. She was beginning to really suffer in the heat and we stayed at the rest stop a little longer to cool off as much as possible. When we came to leave there was not much enthusiasm from the others at the stop to head out; many were really suffering and wanted to stay as long as possible.

JK and I headed out as a pair and I towed JK along for the next 40 or so kilometres as JK became increasingly, and deliriously, fixated on which type of fruit she would like to eat; shouting out there names at random intervals. I am sure she wont mind me saying, but she was beginning to lose her marbles a little… On the final climb before the Ventoux, the uncategorised Col de la Madeleine, we were going at a snails pace as JK battled, doggedly up the climb (a climb that, without 200kms in her legs she would have cruised up normally).

The Giant of Provence, looming

The Ventoux was now in sight, looming in the distance, as we descended off the Col de la Madeleine and rode into Bedoin for the last feed stop of the day, with 225km in our legs and the prospect of 21 more up the Ventoux.

We were really in the hottest part of the day now. The average temperature across the day was 28C, with temperatures consistently above 35C for most of the afternoon. As I set off to climb Ventoux at 4.30pm the temperature on the road, with the heat reflecting back up off the tarmac was 45C!

I left JK at the base of the Ventoux, in the shade and keen to get more rest and headed out to start my ascent. For all that the previous 225km had barely hit the sides, the next 21kms were amongst the toughest I have ever experienced on a bike.

The initial gentle gradient of the Ventoux quickly ramped up to 8 or 9% on entering the forest. The temperature was insane and the air claustrophobic as it closed in around you. It wasn’t long before I was beginning to labour and I knew that I had to knock the pace off a little to avoid blowing up completely.

I ground out the first 10km and arrived at a water stop to refill my bottles and to take the opportunity to cool off a little. I found several others at the water stop, all with thousand-yard stares and several with their heads between their legs retching.

Setting off again it wasn’t too long before I was at Chalet Reynard, a café 6km from the top, and just as you exit the forest and enter the ‘moonscape’ landscape that Ventoux is famous for. Thankfully, with every metre I climbed the air became cooler and the wind more refreshing.

The suffering didn’t abate though and I began to feel the first few twinges of cramp in my salt covered legs. Painful twitches that meant briefly freewheeling to recover.

Emotional. 3km from the top.

At 3km to go, as I passed graffiti across the road in Dan’s honour, I was moving at a snails pace.

At 2km to go I experienced cramping like I have never felt before – both legs completely cramped up - calves, hamstrings and quads - locked solid! I was lucky to stay upright on the bike and had to put my foot down and take time to recover. The heat and gradual dehydration across the day finally caught up with me.

The final push...!

It was an extremely painful final 2km as I cycled through the cramps as they came and went, finally hitting the summit just as an electrical storm started brewing in the distance.

1911m

After the obligatory ‘summit sign’ photos I layered up and loitered at the top for a while as other riders arrived. Every one, to a man, totally broken by the day – some huddling in balls wrapped in blankets, some slumped against walls, head in hands other bursting into tears. It was an epic day and everyone was physically and emotionally drained.

Standard.

I finally decided to descend, stopping at the Tom Simpson memorial on the way down for a quick photo, before bumping into JK climbing up the road at around 3kms from the top. Her earlier delirium had been replaced with cramps. Knowing how hard the final few kilometres had been for me I turned round and rode back up to the summit again alongside JK, trying my best to offer encouragement and support.

Tom Simpson memorial

When we hit the top I turned and immediately started descending as the heavens opened and the rain started pouring down. The rain (or was it hail?), got so heavy that it was stinging and I was forced to stop and shelter at Chalet Reynard on the way down. I found others, still on their way up, doing the same.

Finally, as the rain lightened, I began descending again, the road now streaming with water and debris washed all over it. On my way down, shivering with the cold, I passed many of our group still climbing, determined to get to the top.

Everyone did get to the top, a totally epic achievement and a physical and emotional rollercoaster for all!

In total I covered 275km with 4,000m of elevation gain, riding for 11 hours and being out on the road for 13.5 hours. A very long day on the road and with an excessively long blog to match….